Great Walks magazine loves our Kunisaki Spiritual Trail walk

Feb 04, 2025

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Great Walks magazine loves our Kunisaki Spiritual Trail walk!

Great Walks magazine recently went on our 8-day Kunisaki Spiritual Trail pack-free guided walk and their writer loved every minute of it!

A group of people stands on a scenic overlook with a stone monument in front. In the background, there are green hills and terraced fields. The group appears cheerful, some giving thumbs up, with a view of rural landscape behind them.

For many visitors to Japan it can be hard to experience the ‘real’ country, away from the lights and noise of cities like Tokyo. But every so often a tour comes along that gets you off the beaten track and allows you the rare opportunity to have a deeper experience – one that might change your perception of Japan forever.

Life’s an Adventure has partnered with the Japanese Tourism Board (JTB), to offer a unique tour which goes beyond the tourism trails, where Japanese culture and cuisine can be discovered around every corner.

A group of eleven hikers stands on a rocky ledge with lush green foliage and steep cliffs in the background. Some are holding trekking poles, and they appear to be under a large rock outcrop. They are smiling and dressed in outdoor gear.

The 8-day Kunisaki Spiritual Trail pack-free guided walk is based on the island of Kyushu, the most southern of the country’s main islands. Our meeting point was the city of Fukuoka where I boarded our mini-bus and met my fellow travellers and our guide for the next week, Tetsue.

Chosen by JTB and fluent in English and Japanese, Tetsue immediately taught us some basic greetings for locals we would meet, some who have had very little interaction with Western visitors. “You’re Welcome” is pronounced “Don’t-Touchy-Mustache”. That one was easy!

Temples and teatime
Our first stop was at a temple built in 810AD and we were introduced to Buddhism and how to greet the deities. “Bow twice, clap twice, say name then pass a wish of good health to loved ones,” we were told. And so, we did.

Our first walk was through ‘Ao-no Domon tunnel’, dug by a single Buddhist monk between 1730-1763, which became the first toll tunnel in Japan. We proceeded through, marvelling upon the dedication of a single individual and arrived at the base of a mountainous temple. We were greeted by a monk who was born and resides within the holy grounds. She has dedicated her life to the preservation of this ancient structure.

Person smiling and climbing a rocky, chain-assisted trail on a steep hillside. They are wearing a teal shirt and cap, with a backpack and camera gear. Several other hikers are visible behind amidst green forested landscape.

Tetsue beautifully translated her words where she informed us she had had little interaction with the outside world and was pleased we’d come to visit her temple. It was a very humbling experience. The walk was then a long ascent up a mountainous path where upon the peak an ancient temple stands surrounded by hundreds of stone statues of past monks that have been crafted over hundreds of years.

Legend has it you’ll find a likeness of yourself amongst the many statues and it’s custom to write a personal note acknowledging any anxiety, stress or mental hurdle you’re dealing with. The idea is to leave all that negative energy at the top of the mountain. And you know what? As I descended the mountain I felt emotionally lighter and spiritually calmer. Go figure.

A group of 12 hikers cheerfully pose on a rocky mountaintop with a scenic view of rolling hills and a cloudy sky in the background. They are wearing casual outdoor clothing and hats, with some smiling and waving at the camera.

Today had more to give, with a visit after lunch to a rice field where retired locals who never receive outside visitors greeted us with such joy and prepared us a variety of rice and sweet potato treats, then took us around the plantation to show us how rice is grown.

That evening we arrived at our traditional accommodation where we’d spend the next four nights, located in the rural region of Kunisaki. We were free to enjoy the grounds and natural onsen hot pools.

A smiling chef holds two large plates with assorted sashimi, including slices of fish, lemon wedges, and garnishes, in a restaurant setting. He wears a white coat, tie, and hairnet, with dining tables and a staff member in the background.

Our meals over the next four days were a host of Japanese cuisines prepared fresh by a skilled chef. Our group all dressed in traditional kimono gowns and were treated to what I can only describe as ‘food theatre’, with a presentation of incredible knife skills while our chef prepared a nightly feast of meat and seafood dishes. A spectacular treat was offered on our final evening of fresh sushi, where our chef prepared a feast and delighted in showcasing his talents as someone who is licensed to work with the poisonous (yet delicious) puffer fish.

Ancient craftsmen
The next day we headed to the Kunisaki Long-Trail and discovered that Buddhist monks meet every 10 years to walk the entire 150km walk. We meandered between this mountainous region and visited a number of shrines and statues carved into the mountainous stone, hidden from the modern world for over 1000 years. Visiting these sights and gazing upon the craftsmanship of the monks was breathtaking.

Stone gate flanked by two fierce guardian statues, leading to a staircase surrounded by greenery. Wooden structure with inscriptions and signs displayed at the entrance. Visitors are visible at the top of the stairs.

Our group then headed to the museum where the most valuable statues carved from precious metals has been relocated, and Tetsue was granted behind-the-curtain access for us to view these statues up close. It was incredible.

Our fourth day, after breakfast and an onsen, would be the biggest hiking day on the tour, and an experience like no other. Led by Tetsue and a guest guide, we were taken high in the Kunasaki mountains where we traversed six peaks. The majority of the trail involved upper body strength pulling on chains as we ascended the mountainous terrain. This day will forever by carved in my memories; it was a tough and challenging walk but by the end I had the most euphoric feeling come over me.

Hikers explore a forest with tall, slender trees and a moss-covered stone structure in the background. The ground is covered in rocks and fallen branches. The group is dressed in outdoor gear, some carrying backpacks and walking sticks.

Tetsue expertly ensured every guest was safe and he kept the group together. The strength amongst the group inspired us through the challenging trail and those that would have never believed a hike of this magnitude was achievable, something which they’ll dine-out on for years.

Festival of fire
Back on the Kunasaki Long-Trail the next day, following in the footsteps of the spiritual monks, the walk took us through local villages where we wandered past traditional architecture. Life’s an Adventure then had a treat for the group with a visit to a temple where a residing monk invited us in, blessed us and spoke about his traditional way of life. And after that humbling experience, another was on the horizon as we walked through forests into ancient ruins and onto a sacred site where a fire festival had been arranged. Each member of our group had their names inscribed upon a wood cinder where the monk blessed us individually, and our inscriptions were added to the blessed burning ash.

A person in an orange robe sits on greenery during a guided walking tour in Japan, holding a long object with both hands above their head. Smoke billows from a burning pile of branches nearby, while a pair of sandals rests peacefully on the ground.

What’s great is these aren’t experiences you’ll get on any old tour of Japan. Life’s an Adventure has worked with the local people to bring a tourism boost to a lesser-known region of Japan, for tourists who want a more traditional and cultured experience.

Our final walk upon the trail offered time to reflect on what we had seen so far as we hiked to the Anthony Gormley “Another Time” art installation which stares out upon the Kunasaki Mountains and across the sea where Himeshima “Princess Island”, is on the horizon, our next stop upon this amazing tour of Kyushu.

Kimonos and Karaoke
After a choppy ride on the Princess Ferry, we arrived on Himeshima. Sticking with the theme, our accommodation was very traditional. Kimonos were laid out for us to gather for dinner which was again a spectacular feast. The local tradition of ‘dancing prawns’ was offered for those brave enough. The idea of eating a live prawn and have it dance on your tongue wasn’t for me, but others commented it was an interesting experience.

A group of people wearing traditional Japanese robes stands indoors. They are smiling and posing for a photo in front of a wooden wall with paper paneling. The setting appears to be a Japanese-style room with visible wooden beams.

The following morning involved a walking tour of the island, where we learned about its history and met the locals. We then had a cooking class of local cuisine followed by karaoke and lunch with our friendly hosts.

We’ve enjoyed saké every evening along with local wines and beers over dinner and our guide arranged for us to visit a saké brewery where we learned about the process of making saké and got to taste a few different types. I even bought a couple of bottles.

A group of people in a dimly lit room observe large wooden barrels partially covered with blue tarps. One person, wearing a backpack, touches a barrel. The room has wooden beams and a single light bulb illuminating the space.

That evening for our final night’s stay we ventured into Beppu, a more modern version of Japan, where the latest technology meets 21st century architecture. It was quite the contrast from what we had experienced up until then, but it was just as interesting.

Time capsule
Our last day hiking together was as majestic as the previous seven, with a visit and walking tour of a preserved Samurai town, Kitsuki, where we meet a JTB guide who took us into a Samurai home. He spoke about the architecture and how each room was designed and prepared for unwanted attacks. As a special bonus I got to hold an authentic Samurai sword and longbow.

Three stone statues of Buddhist figures are placed on a rocky surface inside a cave. A small vase with purple flowers is nearby. Overhead, a light illuminates the scene, casting shadows on the rough cave walls.

The tour continued on to a miso store run by the 4th generation owner and dating back 420 years in crafting miso. A final highlight of Kitsuki was a visit to a traditional teahouse where the group was invited to participate in a tea ceremony, hosted by an 11th generation tea-shop owner, where the timeless attributes of tradition, respect and manners are upheld. Kitsuki was a beautifully preserved time capsule of a period of history long gone.

A table set with a variety of Japanese dishes, including sashimi, boiled shrimp, pickled vegetables, and a hot pot with a wooden lid. There's also soy sauce, a teapot, and chopsticks on a holder, arranged neatly on a textured surface.

One more final wow-moment awaited. Before we said our goodbyes we had a degustation meal within the grounds of a previous Japanese Royal residence. The meal was as epic as our surrounds and was a wonderful final opportunity to reflect on all we’d experienced upon this beautifully curated tour of Japanese culture and the people who have welcomed us into their lives.

Words_Bobby Butler

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